Every trip has a plan. More precise or less precise, but it has one. Ours was roughly like that:
- From Marrakesh to Imlil - some small food shopping there, then from Imlil to refuge
- We climb the highest peak of the High Atlas mountains - Jbel Toubkal
- From refuge to Lac d'Ifni, we are going to sleep with locals
- Big trip from southern Atlas, trough the mountains up to Marrakesh. Then night in the city.
View LHC Jbel Toubkal 2009 in a larger map
We arrived in Marrakesh around 23:00 local time (GMT-1). A driver was waiting
for us at the airport - he took us to a 8-seater Nissan and
drove us to our hotel. Some observations from this short trip:
- a lot of police around the town
- streets ranging from narrow to very narrow
- a bit of a ghots town impression - probably due to the late hour
- huge amounts of european cars from the 70's everywere
We got up around 8:00. A delicious breakfast was served on the roof
of the hotel building at 8:30.
The fresh orange juice, local pancakes and bread deserve special mention, but in
generall everything was very good.
At 10:00 we took a taxi to the village Imlil, from where we were supposed to go on foot.
Before leaving the town we made one more
stop at a bank to change some more money and off we go!
Still in Marrakesh, we got stopped by the police for speeding (5 km/h). Our driver payed a 'ticket' amounting to 100 MAD (about 10 EUR) and in the meantime we were instructed not to be taking photos of policemen on duty, but instead to take photos of: monuments, sights, and ourselves.
At noon we reached the town of Imlil, located at a height of about 1800m. The locals are offering everything there - clothing, food, guides, and mules (with an extra guide for the mule). We sat down with a glass of 'berber whiskey' (the local sweet mint tea) and assisted by our driver and some other people tried to visualise on a map our plan to go by foot to the other side of the Atlas mountains and return by bus/taxi. Part of the team left to do some shopping: camping gas, water, bread, candy, coffee, etc. It took us a short while to put all the new stuff into our backpacks and split 18 liters of water over 7 people. Armed with about 18kg of stuff per person we set out at about 13:00.
The walk up was ok. A nice african wind kept us from getting too warm. We were still encountering the local sellers, which apparently had some form of communication, because after we passed a few of them, they started greeting us with 'Dzień dobry' or 'za darmo' - meaning 'Good morning' or 'for free' in Polish. For the Berbers nothing is for free, but still they kept inviting us to their small shops this way. After some more walking we reached the level of the clouds and started to worry about the weather - unnecessairly as it turned out later. Around 18:30 we spotted in the fog the lights of our Refuge. Actually - two refuges. We went to the one run by the Moroccan CAF (Club Alpin Francais), where we had made a reservation.
After supper we sat down with a group of Spaniards, who had the same plan for the following day: Toubkal. They also had a simmilar recipe for avoiding stomach troubles to ours - daily disinfection. Thus we found a common language sharing polish cherry vodka and some very good spanish wine, kept in a wineskin. This required special skill during drinking, which was done from a distance - without touching the thing with the lips.
Still in Marrakesh, we got stopped by the police for speeding (5 km/h). Our driver payed a 'ticket' amounting to 100 MAD (about 10 EUR) and in the meantime we were instructed not to be taking photos of policemen on duty, but instead to take photos of: monuments, sights, and ourselves.
At noon we reached the town of Imlil, located at a height of about 1800m. The locals are offering everything there - clothing, food, guides, and mules (with an extra guide for the mule). We sat down with a glass of 'berber whiskey' (the local sweet mint tea) and assisted by our driver and some other people tried to visualise on a map our plan to go by foot to the other side of the Atlas mountains and return by bus/taxi. Part of the team left to do some shopping: camping gas, water, bread, candy, coffee, etc. It took us a short while to put all the new stuff into our backpacks and split 18 liters of water over 7 people. Armed with about 18kg of stuff per person we set out at about 13:00.
The walk up was ok. A nice african wind kept us from getting too warm. We were still encountering the local sellers, which apparently had some form of communication, because after we passed a few of them, they started greeting us with 'Dzień dobry' or 'za darmo' - meaning 'Good morning' or 'for free' in Polish. For the Berbers nothing is for free, but still they kept inviting us to their small shops this way. After some more walking we reached the level of the clouds and started to worry about the weather - unnecessairly as it turned out later. Around 18:30 we spotted in the fog the lights of our Refuge. Actually - two refuges. We went to the one run by the Moroccan CAF (Club Alpin Francais), where we had made a reservation.
After supper we sat down with a group of Spaniards, who had the same plan for the following day: Toubkal. They also had a simmilar recipe for avoiding stomach troubles to ours - daily disinfection. Thus we found a common language sharing polish cherry vodka and some very good spanish wine, kept in a wineskin. This required special skill during drinking, which was done from a distance - without touching the thing with the lips.
We got up around 6:30. Breakfast was served at 7:00, and after some
preparations we left without hurry at about 8:30. We left about half of
the stuff from our backpacks in the hut, as it wasn't necesarry for the
summit and we were planning to spend another night there.
After the first 200m of altitude difference we started getting hot in the winter clothing we've put on, but the good tempo allowed us to overtake a large group, change and continue remaining ahead of them. Another few hundred meters over snow fields and rocks and we reached the big saddle under the summit. Split into 2-3 person groups we reached the peak. Just before the peak itself we caught up with the Spanish group, which left 1.5 hours before us and were now close to reaching the top. After a friendly chat we went on and gathered under the huge metal structure marking the mountain's summit. It was 11:30 in the morning.
We spent about an hour and a half enjoying the sun, taking photos and consuming various "summit trophy" drinks. Around 13:00 we started the descent. The first one to dissapear behind some rocks on the way down was Czesław, who was leading us down. It took us some time to locate him, and meanwile we managed to loose Łukasz and Jens, who ended up going down the same way that we used on the way up. The rest of the group headed for the unknown, exploring the southeast ridge of Toubkal.
The way down was - as way downs usually are - adventurous. We followed a steep ridge, traversed snow fields which offered fun things like the opportunity to suddenly fall waist deep into the snow, we kept looking for the path, parts of which we sometimes crossed along the way. Fortunately, we finally reached a place from where we could see our huts, although we were separated from them by a huge cliff undercutting the valley which we were descending. Navigating around it we reached the huts sipping the last drops of water from our waterbags. There we found Łukasz and Jens, waiting on the terrace. The descent took us 4 hours - around 18:00 we sat down for supper.
After that the usual evening ritual followed, with stories and triumphant everyday 'disinfection'. Around 22:00 we went to sleep.
After the first 200m of altitude difference we started getting hot in the winter clothing we've put on, but the good tempo allowed us to overtake a large group, change and continue remaining ahead of them. Another few hundred meters over snow fields and rocks and we reached the big saddle under the summit. Split into 2-3 person groups we reached the peak. Just before the peak itself we caught up with the Spanish group, which left 1.5 hours before us and were now close to reaching the top. After a friendly chat we went on and gathered under the huge metal structure marking the mountain's summit. It was 11:30 in the morning.
We spent about an hour and a half enjoying the sun, taking photos and consuming various "summit trophy" drinks. Around 13:00 we started the descent. The first one to dissapear behind some rocks on the way down was Czesław, who was leading us down. It took us some time to locate him, and meanwile we managed to loose Łukasz and Jens, who ended up going down the same way that we used on the way up. The rest of the group headed for the unknown, exploring the southeast ridge of Toubkal.
The way down was - as way downs usually are - adventurous. We followed a steep ridge, traversed snow fields which offered fun things like the opportunity to suddenly fall waist deep into the snow, we kept looking for the path, parts of which we sometimes crossed along the way. Fortunately, we finally reached a place from where we could see our huts, although we were separated from them by a huge cliff undercutting the valley which we were descending. Navigating around it we reached the huts sipping the last drops of water from our waterbags. There we found Łukasz and Jens, waiting on the terrace. The descent took us 4 hours - around 18:00 we sat down for supper.
After that the usual evening ritual followed, with stories and triumphant everyday 'disinfection'. Around 22:00 we went to sleep.
We got up at 6:00 in the morning. We had our breakfast, packed our stuff,
refilled with 18l of water and set out.
It was a lot colder than on the previous day, and in addition on the way to the pass we were walking in the shadow of the surrounding mountains. The ascent route was steep and slippery. At some times we even started to regret having not taken crampons with us. Forunately a bit of concentration and the aid of trekking poles were enough to safely traverse the steep snow fieds. We reached the pass at different times, but at least EVERYBODY made it. As a pleasnant surprise, we met on the way another guy from Poland (greetings to Darek!), who appeared to be the only person apart from us who wanted to see the Lake d'Ifni that day. So our group got expanded by an additional member. We spent some time there, enjoying the beautiful views and taking pictures.
At about 9:30 we started down form the pass. The lake and the villages were far away, and even worse - 2000m below us! Still, we marched quickly and withour problems, from time to time simply sliding down on patches of snow. The surroundings were stunning, with some plants starting to slowly appear here and there, the high mountains on both sides of the valley and a beautiful waterfall, by which we made a rest. Finally around 17:00 we sat down by the lake. We could see our path lead to a cliff and dissapear between the steep rocks - some fun was still ahead of us.
The path turned out to be traversing the rocky cliff. It was a little dangerous in the parts where we had to walk on small loose stones. We carefully made it through these parts, holding on to solid rock where possible. This way we reached the other side of the lake, and the begginning (or end) of a road leading further down the valley.
This road led us to a small village. After 2 days spent above 3000m we were enchanted by the view. Descending from a world where rocks were the background to more rocks, we entered a valley where a clever irrigation system set up by the local people resulted in an explosion of green. And to top it all, the paradise-like landscape was completed by a beautiful waterfall falling down a steep slope between the trees.
After admiring the view we continued down between the houses and were immediately surrounded by small children, demanding candy or dirhams (for example in return for taking a photo of them). After a few more kilometers of walking we managed to hitch a ride on a... truck. We were taken to the nearest guest house, where we were welcomed by Omar Himmi, apparently the leader of the village. We got a room, a delicious supper and breakfast the next day, and he also arranged another truck to take us in the morning to a village from where we could take a bus to Marrakesh...
It was a lot colder than on the previous day, and in addition on the way to the pass we were walking in the shadow of the surrounding mountains. The ascent route was steep and slippery. At some times we even started to regret having not taken crampons with us. Forunately a bit of concentration and the aid of trekking poles were enough to safely traverse the steep snow fieds. We reached the pass at different times, but at least EVERYBODY made it. As a pleasnant surprise, we met on the way another guy from Poland (greetings to Darek!), who appeared to be the only person apart from us who wanted to see the Lake d'Ifni that day. So our group got expanded by an additional member. We spent some time there, enjoying the beautiful views and taking pictures.
At about 9:30 we started down form the pass. The lake and the villages were far away, and even worse - 2000m below us! Still, we marched quickly and withour problems, from time to time simply sliding down on patches of snow. The surroundings were stunning, with some plants starting to slowly appear here and there, the high mountains on both sides of the valley and a beautiful waterfall, by which we made a rest. Finally around 17:00 we sat down by the lake. We could see our path lead to a cliff and dissapear between the steep rocks - some fun was still ahead of us.
The path turned out to be traversing the rocky cliff. It was a little dangerous in the parts where we had to walk on small loose stones. We carefully made it through these parts, holding on to solid rock where possible. This way we reached the other side of the lake, and the begginning (or end) of a road leading further down the valley.
This road led us to a small village. After 2 days spent above 3000m we were enchanted by the view. Descending from a world where rocks were the background to more rocks, we entered a valley where a clever irrigation system set up by the local people resulted in an explosion of green. And to top it all, the paradise-like landscape was completed by a beautiful waterfall falling down a steep slope between the trees.
After admiring the view we continued down between the houses and were immediately surrounded by small children, demanding candy or dirhams (for example in return for taking a photo of them). After a few more kilometers of walking we managed to hitch a ride on a... truck. We were taken to the nearest guest house, where we were welcomed by Omar Himmi, apparently the leader of the village. We got a room, a delicious supper and breakfast the next day, and he also arranged another truck to take us in the morning to a village from where we could take a bus to Marrakesh...
We woke up at 8:00 in the morning. We had our breakfast, packed, payed
Omar for the night and before 9:00 hopped onto another truck, the first
leg of the trip back to Marrakesh.
We reached a village, where our bus arrived at 10:00. We quickly took the seats in the back and waited for the depart. The bus started on its way down a narrow road, passing small villages, rivers etc. After 4 hours we reached the town of A..., where we changed from our 30-person vehicle to a normal big coach. Well, the coach turned out to be the only normal thing on that ride. The driver looked like Master Yoda (but was driving a lot better than your average european bus driver), the road was winding up the mountains, from pass to pass. And, most important - it was wide for 2 cars - and our driver was passing another bus a couple times... After seeing the cliffs on both sides and the almost complete lack of any barriers we were sure - the tight alpine roads are nothing compared to this.
Anyway, at 21:00 we reached Marrakesh, caught a taxi and around 22:00 arrived in our hotel. A quick drink of mint tea and we headed off into the town to get something to eat.
We reached the Djemaa el-Fna, and found food (actually, the cooks found us). We sat, we ate, and we went back. On the way back we got lost, putting too much faith in a GPS. Navigation in the medina is a lot harder that in the mountains. After an hour of nervous walking around in dark alleys (and thanking God we were a group of five) we reached the hotel. Some more delicious mint tea and we went to sleep.
We reached a village, where our bus arrived at 10:00. We quickly took the seats in the back and waited for the depart. The bus started on its way down a narrow road, passing small villages, rivers etc. After 4 hours we reached the town of A..., where we changed from our 30-person vehicle to a normal big coach. Well, the coach turned out to be the only normal thing on that ride. The driver looked like Master Yoda (but was driving a lot better than your average european bus driver), the road was winding up the mountains, from pass to pass. And, most important - it was wide for 2 cars - and our driver was passing another bus a couple times... After seeing the cliffs on both sides and the almost complete lack of any barriers we were sure - the tight alpine roads are nothing compared to this.
Anyway, at 21:00 we reached Marrakesh, caught a taxi and around 22:00 arrived in our hotel. A quick drink of mint tea and we headed off into the town to get something to eat.
We reached the Djemaa el-Fna, and found food (actually, the cooks found us). We sat, we ate, and we went back. On the way back we got lost, putting too much faith in a GPS. Navigation in the medina is a lot harder that in the mountains. After an hour of nervous walking around in dark alleys (and thanking God we were a group of five) we reached the hotel. Some more delicious mint tea and we went to sleep.
For the second and last time we managed to have the delicious hotel
breakfast on the roof. REALLY good!
At 9:00 we headed for the market to buy souvenirs and stuff like that. This of course involved a lot of bargaining, and a historic bargain was made by Arek and Piotrek, who from the initial price of 900 dirhams managed to go down to:
At the airport it turned out that our flight has a 2 hour delay. So we sat down in a bar and tasted products of some local breweries and filled up our supply of souvenirs in some airport shops.
At 18:00 Moroccan time we finally got on the plane and soon afterwards the plane took off... in a big hurry - apparently a big thunderstorm was approaching.
At 9:00 we headed for the market to buy souvenirs and stuff like that. This of course involved a lot of bargaining, and a historic bargain was made by Arek and Piotrek, who from the initial price of 900 dirhams managed to go down to:
- 450 dirhams
- three small ambers from Poland
- a CD of Piotrek's band Yokashin
At the airport it turned out that our flight has a 2 hour delay. So we sat down in a bar and tasted products of some local breweries and filled up our supply of souvenirs in some airport shops.
At 18:00 Moroccan time we finally got on the plane and soon afterwards the plane took off... in a big hurry - apparently a big thunderstorm was approaching.
Our trip took place between 30.04.2009 and 04.05.2009.
The team:
Useful links:
Bon voyage!
The team:
- basia treutlein
- czesiek 'max' fluder
- arek gorzawski
- �ukasz janyst
- mariusz sapi�ski
- 'indiana' jens steckert
- piotrek traczyk
Useful links:
- weather
- refuge
- Riad Ghallia hotel
- http://www.atlas-blue.com
- some maps of the region
- LHC Jbel Toubkal 2009 Expedition on google.maps.com
Bon voyage!